Azelaic Acid: The Unsung Hero of Clear, Calm Skin

How It Became Famous Lately

If you’ve scrolled through skincare TikTok or browsed any Reddit skincare thread lately, you’ve probably seen azelaic acid being praised as the next holy grail ingredient. Once a quiet favorite prescribed by dermatologists, it’s now having a major moment thanks to its versatility and gentle effectiveness. From fighting acne and rosacea to brightening skin tone, azelaic acid is proving it deserves a permanent spot in your skincare lineup.

Benefits for the Skin

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid derived from grains like barley and wheat—but don’t let that fool you, it’s a true multitasker. Here’s what it can do:

• Clears acne: It fights acne-causing bacteria and helps unclog pores without the irritation that often comes with stronger actives.

• Reduces redness and rosacea: One of its standout benefits is its anti-inflammatory effect, which soothes redness and calms rosacea-prone skin.

• Fades hyperpigmentation: It gently inhibits melanin production, making it great for fading dark spots and post-acne marks.

• Improves skin texture: Regular use can smooth out roughness and leave skin looking more refined and even.

Essentially, it’s a gentle overachiever that works for almost all skin types—including sensitive ones.

How to Use It

You can find azelaic acid in strengths ranging from 5% to 20%, depending on whether it’s an over-the-counter or prescription formula. Here’s how to make it part of your routine:

1. Start slowly: Use it once a day at first (preferably at night), then increase to twice daily if your skin tolerates it well.

2. Apply on clean, dry skin: After cleansing and toning, apply a pea-sized amount to your entire face—not just problem areas.

3. Follow with moisturizer: It pairs beautifully with hydrating and soothing products like ceramides and niacinamide.

4. Always wear SPF: Like many actives, azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

What Not to Do

Even though azelaic acid is gentle, it still needs some care in how you use it. Avoid layering it with too many strong actives, like glycolic acid or retinoids, until you know your skin’s limits. Be patient, as results take time and consistency rather than overnight miracles. And don’t forget sunscreen—UV exposure can undo its brightening and calming benefits.

My Experience

When I first tried azelaic acid, I wasn’t expecting much. My skin was breaking out around my chin, and I had lingering redness that never seemed to fade. After about four weeks, I started noticing subtle but real changes—less irritation, fewer breakouts, and a smoother overall tone. By the two-month mark, I was hooked. It didn’t sting like other acids, and my skin just looked healthier.

Now, it’s a staple in my nighttime routine—a quiet achiever that keeps my skin balanced, calm, and bright.

Product Recommendations

Here are some tried-and-true azelaic acid products for different budgets:

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is an affordable treatment targeting uneven tone, redness, and blemishes. It contains 10% azelaic acid, known for its anti-inflammatory and brightening properties. The silicone-heavy cream-gel texture feels smooth and slightly primer-like—great under makeup but sometimes heavy for oily skin. It’s vegan, alcohol-free, and generally effective for improving clarity and reducing redness over time, though some users experience mild dryness or tingling. Overall, a cost-effective option for introducing azelaic acid into a routine.

Azelaic acid might be subtle, but it delivers real results. Gentle, effective, and versatile—it’s a must-have for clearer, calmer, brighter skin. Stick with it and let consistency do the magic.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them—at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I truly love and use myself.

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a lightweight treatment designed to reduce redness, uneven tone, and blemishes. It combines 10% azelaic acid with 0.5% salicylic acid and soothing ingredients, offering both brightening and clarifying benefits. The fluid, non-greasy texture layers easily with other skincare and works well under makeup. It’s fragrance-free and suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. While effective, it’s pricier than simpler azelaic acid products, and mild irritation may occur if used alongside other exfoliating acids.

ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum boasts 10% azelaic acid to help calm redness and uneven tone, paired with three types of hyaluronic acid for hydration and niacinamide for skin-clarifying benefits. The lightweight, non-greasy texture is designed for daily use and is marketed as suitable even for sensitive skin. Because of its modest pricing and multi-functional formulation (redness-soothing + hydration + texture refining), it’s a strong mid-priced option. On the flip side, as with most actives, results will take consistent use and those with very reactive skin should patch test before full use.

The INKEY List SuperSolutions Azelaic Acid 10% Serum is a soothing gel-serum formulated to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. It combines 10% azelaic acid with allantoin to comfort sensitive skin and green pigments to visually neutralize redness. The lightweight texture absorbs quickly and layers well with other products, making it easy to use in both morning and evening routines. Many users find it effective for calming inflammation and brightening the complexion, though mild dryness or tingling can occur at first. This is normal and should go away after a few uses.